Snowflake Cowl

  What could be a more appropriate lace pattern for a cowl than snowflakes?  Wear this on a snowy winter day and you'll blend right in!  I found this repeating pattern in "750 Knitting Stitches: The Ultimate Knit Stitch Bible".  The pattern is knit flat, then the ends are sewn together.  After blocking, the final dimensions for this project are 60" in circumference by 6" in width.

Materials You Will Need:

• 1 skein of dk weight yarn.  I used a local Portland OR dyer Bumblebirch, in the color Agave.
• US #10 needles
• Row counter
• Tapestry needle
• Blocking pins and matts

Skills You Will Need:

• Casting on
• k (knit)
• p (purl)
• sl1 (slip 1 purl-wise with the yarn in back)
• k2tog (knit 2 stitches together)
• skpo (slip 1 knit-wise with yarn in back, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over)
• sl2 (slip 2 knit-wise with yarn in back)
• p2sso (pass 2 slipped stitches over)
• yo (yarn over)
• Binding off
• Blocking
• Sewing ends together
• Weaving in ends

A Note on the Slipped Stitches: The first stitch of every row will be slipped purl-wise with the yarn in back.  This is to create an open chain selvedge edge.  Every other slipped stitch will be slipped knit-wise with the yarn in back.

A Note on Adjusting the Repeating Pattern if so Desired: This is a fairly simple, 12 row repeating pattern.  The snowflake pattern is divisible by 8+7 stitches, plus a 3 stitch seed stitch border on each end.  My pattern has two repeats of the snowflake pattern, so (8x2+7)+(3+3)=29.  If you would like to expand the width of the pattern, do so in multiples of 8 stitches.  The wrong side will be the odd numbered rows, and right side the even rows.  The pattern I list for each right side row will contain an 8 stitch repeating section, indicated by surrounding that section with asterisks.  If you choose to expand the pattern simply add repeats to this section.

Begin by loosely casting on 29 stitches.  Then follow the 12 row repeating pattern until you reach your desired length.

• Row 1: sl1, k1, p25, k1, p1.  (Repeat this for every odd numbered row)
• Row 2: sl1, k1, p1, k5, skpo, yo, k1, yo, k2tog,                                                                        *k3, skpo, yo, k1, yo, k2tog* repeat until last 8 stitches, k5, p1, k1, p1.
• Row 4: sl1, k1, p1, k6, yo, sl2, k1, p2sso, yo,                                                                           *k5, yo, sl2, k1, p2sso, yo* repeat until last 9 stitches, k6, p1, k1, p1.
• Row 6: Knit as row 2.
• Row 8: sl1, k1, p1, k1, skpo, yo, k1, yo, k2tog,                                                                        *k3, skpo, yo, k1, yo, k2tog* repeat until last 4 stitches, k1, p1, k1, p1.
• Row 10: sl1, k1, p1, k2, yo, sl2, k1, p2sso, yo,                                                                         *k5, yo, sl2, k1, p2sso, yo* repeat until last 5 stitches, k2, p1, k1, p1.
• Row 12: Knit as row 8.

Continue until you reach your desired length, being sure to end on row 12.  Loosely bind off, being sure to leave a tail long enough to sew the two ends together, 2-3 feet.  I recommend lightly blocking your project before you sew the ends together.  Blocking will open up the lace pattern.  Once you a done blocking, sew together the two ends.  I used the mattress stitch, which does a good job of hiding the seam from the right side of the project.  Now weave in your ends and enjoy!

Infinite Leafy Vine Cowl

  I've loved this pattern of leaves and vines ever since I first saw it used on these Leafy Fingerless Gloves by Laura Peveler.  This cowl uses her repeating pattern, with a repeating daisy pattern on the edges, and a 3 stitch seed stitch border between them.
  The final dimensions of this project after light blocking are 11" wide and 34" in circumference.  However, this pattern can easily be adjusted to make it longer if so desired.
  Be advised that the two repeating patterns for this cowl (daisy & leafy vines) do NOT repeat over the same number of rows.  Since one repeats at 14 rows, and the other 24 rows, it takes 168 total rows for them to finally sync up.  I therefore lay out those patterns separately here for simplicity, since I don't want to type out 168 rows of pattern.  I recommend using two distinct row counters so you can keep track of where you are in both the interior and exterior repeats.

Materials You Will Need:

• Approximately 126 grams of worsted weight yarn.  I used Malabrigo Rios in the color Volcan.
• US #10 circular needles 14-22"
• Tapestry needle
• 2 row counters

Skills You Will Need:

• Casting on
• k (Knit)
• p (Purl)
• yo (Yarn over)
• k2tog (Knit 2 stitches together)
• p2tog (Purl 2 stitches together)
• skpo (Slip one, knit one, pass slipped stitch over
• kfb (Knit front & back)
• pfb (Purl front & back)
• m1 (Make 1)
• sl (Slip a stitch purl-wise)
• p2sso (Pass 2 slipped stitches over)
• Binding off
• Weaving in ends
• Sewing ends together

Begin by casting on 48 stitches with your preferred technique.  The cast on should be slightly stretchy.  Note: once you begin the pattern all of the odd numbered rows are the wrong side, and even numbered rows are the right side.  This is the opposite of what most patterns do.  It was just to simplify my translation of the original pattern from in-the-round instructions into flat instructions.

Exterior Pattern:

Row 1: sl1, k1, p8, k1, p1, k1 --(switch to interior pattern)-- k1, p1, k1, p8, k2

Row 2: sl1, k10, p1, k1 --(interior pattern)-- k1, p1, k11

Row 3: sl1, k1, p8, k1, p1, k1 --(interior pattern)-- k1, p1, k1, p8, k2

Row 4: sl1, k3, k2tog, yo2, skpo, k3, p1, k1 --(interior pattern)-- k1, p1, k3, k2tog, yo2, skpo, k4

Row 5: sl1, k1, p3, k1, p4, k1, p1, k1 --(interior pattern)-- k1, p1, k1, p3, k1, p4, k2

Row 6: sl1, k1, [k2tog, yo2, skpo]twice, k1, p1, k1 --(interior pattern)-- k1, p1, k1, [k2tog, yo2, skpo]twice, k2

Row 7: sl1, k1, p1, k1, p3, k1, p2, k1, p1, k1 --(interior pattern)-- k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p3, k1, p2, k2

Row 8: Repeat row 4

Row 9: Repeat row 5

Row 10: Repeat row 6

Row 11: Repeat row 7

Row 12: Repeat row 4

Row 13: Repeat row 5

Row 14: Repeat row 2

Interior Pattern:

Row 1: k3, p5, k4, p3, k7

Row 2: p5, p2tog, kfb, k2, p4, k2, yo, k1, yo, k2, p3

Row 3: k3, p7, k4, p2, k1, p1, k6

Row 4: p4, p2tog, k1, pfb, k2, p4, k3, yo, k1, yo, k3, p3

Row 5: k3, p9, k4, p2, k2, p1, k5

Row 6: p3, p2tog, k1, pfb, p1, k2, p4, skpo, k5, k2tog, p3

Row 7: k3, p7, k4, p2, k3, p1, k4

Row 8: p2, p2tog, k1, pfb, p2, k2, p4, skpo, k3, k2tog, p3

Row 9: k3, p5, k4, p2, k4, p1, k3

Row 10: p3, yo, k1, yo, p4, k2, p4, skpo, k1, k2tog, p3

Row 11: k3, p3, k4, p2, k4, p3, k3

Row 12: p3, [k1, yo]twice, k1, p4, k1, m1, k1, p2tog, p2, sl2, k1, p2sso, p3

Row 13: k3, p1, k3, p3, k4, p5, k3

Row 14: p3, k2, yo, k1, yo, k2, p4, k1, kfb, k1, p2tog, p5

Row 15: k6, p1, k1, p2, k4, p7, k3

Row 16: p3, k3, yo, k1, yo, k3, p4, k2, pfb, k1, p2tog, p4

Row 17: k5, p1, k2, p2, k4, p9, k3

Row 18: p3, skpo, k5, k2tog, p4, k2, p1, pfb, k1, p2tog, p3

Row 19: k4, p1, k3, p2, k4, p7, k3

Row 20: p3, skpo, k3, k2tog, p4, k2, p2, pfb, k1, p2tog, p2

Row 21: k3, p1, k4, p2, k4, p5, k3

Row 22: p3, skpo, k1, k2tog, p4, k2, p4, yo, k1, yo, p3

Row 23: k3, p3, k4, p2, k4, p3, k3

Row 24: p3, sl2, k1, p2sso, p2, p2tog, k1, m1, k1, p4, [k1, yo]twice, k1, p3

Once you have reached 168 rows, or your own desired length, loosely bind off leaving a tail 3-4 feet long.  You will use this tail to sew together the two ends of the project.  I recommend lightly blocking your project before sewing the ends together to open up the lace pattern.  For joining the ends, I used the mattress stitch, which does a good job of making the seam mostly invisible.  Now weave in your ends and you are done!

Boysenberry cowl

This is a quick and easy one-skein project that I made for a co-worker.  It's warm enough to double over and wear during the winter, but can be worn open during warmer weather as well.  It is knit-in-the-round so no need for sewing the edges together.

Materials you will need:

• Approximately 85 grams of worsted weight yarn.  I used Malabrigo in the color Purple Magic
• US #9 circular needles 22-30" 
• Stitch marker
• Tapestry needle

          Skills you will need:

• Casting on
• Knit
• Purl
• K2tog
• SSK
• YO
• Binding off
• Weaving in ends

Begin by casting on 132 stitches using your preferred method.  The cast on should be a little bit stretchy.  After that there are 39 rows of basic knitting to create a very simple, reversible lace pattern.

• Row 1 = Knit across
• Row 2 = Purl across
• Row 3 = Knit across
• Row 4 = Purl across
• Row 5 = Knit across
• Row 6 = *YO, K2tog* repeat to marker
• Row 7 = Knit across
• Row 8 = Purl across
• Row 9 = Knit across
• Row 10 = *YO, YO, SSK, K2tog*
• Row 11 = *K, P, K2*
• Row 12 = Purl
• Row 13 = Knit
• Row 14 = *SSK, K2tog, YO, YO*
• Row 15 = *K3, P*
• Row 16 = Purl across
• Row 17 = Knit across
• Row 18 = Purl across
• Row 19 = Knit across
• Row 20 = *YO, K2tog*
• Row 21 = Knit across
• Row 22 = Purl across
• Row 23 = Knit across
• Row 24 = *SSK, K2tog, YO, YO*
• Row 25 = *K3, P*
• Row 26 = Purl across
• Row 27 = Knit across
• Row 28 = *YO, YO, SSK, K2tog*
• Row 29 = *K, P, K2*
• Row 30 = Purl across
• Row 31 = Knit across
• Row 32 = Purl across
• Row 33 = Knit across
• Row 34 = *YO, K2tog*
• Row 35 = Knit across
• Row 36 = Purl across
• Row 37 = Knit across
• Row 38 = Purl across
• Row 39 = Knit across

Bind off using a slightly stretchy bind off.  Cut your yarn leaving an 8-12 inch tail.  Weave in your ends with a tapestry needle.  I hope you enjoy your project!  Told ya it was simple :)

Twisted Stitch Columns Cowl

   Winter hit Portland hard this year.  Lots of snow and ice on the roads meant less driving and more walking.  And who doesn't like a walk through beautiful snow covered woods and fields?  However, I needed to add a nice long cowl to my armory of cold weather gear.  I chose this pattern for two reason.  First, it has a good amount of stretch to it.  Second, the ribbing and columns give it a vertical...I want to say rigidity...so that it won't sag downward off my face.  The pattern itself is a very simple 13 stitch repeat that resets every 4 rows, so once you get going you won't even need to look at the pattern any more.

Materials you will need:

• 1 full 100 gram skein of worsted weight yarn.  I used my favorite local brand Bumblebirch, in the color Spruce
• US #7 circular needles approximately 30"
• Stitch marker
• Tapestry needle

Skills you will need:

• Casting on 
• Knit 
• Purl
• Right Twist (RT) - K2tog leaving both stitches on the left hand needle, then knit the first stitch again
• Binding off
• Weaving in ends

 

  I don't think that gauge is important for this project as it doesn't need to be form fitted and the ribbing will allow for a good stretch.  However, if you're interested my gauge was 4"= 30 stitches and 33 rows in pattern.

  Begin by casting on 130 stitches.  This will be ten repeats of the 13 stitch pattern.  If you would like to make a smaller or larger version of this cowl be sure to adjust the cast on by 13 stitches.  Be sure to use a very stretchy cast on.  You'll need the bottom to easily stretch.  

  Once you have your stitches cast on, place your marker and join in the round.  The rest of this project is quite simply a 4 row repeating pattern of 13 stitches.  Knit for as many rows as you like.  My project used the entire skein and ended up about 9.5" tall.  I feel like this is a good length to keep the bottom snugly over my neck and collarbone while allowing the top to come up over my nose if needed.  It also looks pretty good folded in half.

• Row 1: [P1, K1] 3 times, P1, RT 3 times.  Repeat to marker.
• Row 2: [P1, K1] 3 times, P1, K6.  Repeat.
• Row 3: [P1, K1] 3 times, P1, K1, RT 2 times, K1.  Repeat.
• Row 4: [P1, K1] 3 times, P1, K6.  Repeat.

  

  And its as easy as that!  You thought it would be harder didn't you 😉.  Just be sure to end the pattern on row 4.  I suggest binding off in pattern.  That will allow the top edge to stretch but also keep it snug around your face if you want to pull it up over your nose.  Then cut the yarn, weave in, yada yada yada.  Enjoy your new cowl!

Drifting Sands Beanie

  This beanie is inspired by a pattern I saw in The Knit Stitch Pattern Handbook.  It's a nice resource of 300 patterns of all types.  The repeating wavy pattern caught my eye and I knew that I wanted to make a beanie with it.  It's a very simple pattern using only knits and purls which repeats every 5 rows.  The result is a fun looking pattern with a nice texture to it as well.
  This pattern has a good amount of stretch to it, both vertically and horizontally, so gauge isn't too important.  My head is 22", and the hat I made fits snugly but without needing to be stretched.  It comes down over my ears easily.  If I pull it down tight it fits as a skullcap, but it can also be worn a little bit more loosely.

Materials You Will Need:

• Approximately 55 grams of sport weight yarn.  I used Malabrigo Arroyo in the color Sand Bank.
• US #4 circular needles 22" (or DPNs)
• US #6 circular needles 22" (or DPNs)
• Stitch marker
• Tapestry needle

Skills You Will Need:

• Casting on
• Knit 
• Purl
• K2tog
• P2tog
• SSK
• SSP
• Weaving in ends

  The gauge I got with the US #6 needles in the repeating pattern was 25 stitches and 44 rows = 4 inches.  Like I said, since this pattern has a very forgiving stretch, gauge isn't vital in my opinion.  But it could be useful if you want to adjust this pattern for a difference sized head.

  Begin by casting on 126 stitches, or whatever multiple of 14 you think will work best for your hat, onto the smaller needles.  I used the long tail cast on.  Place your stitch marker here to designate the end of your row, and join in the round.

  Knit 2x2 ribbing for approximately 1 inch.  Now switch over to your larger needles for the body of the hat.  The pattern repeats every 5 rows.  Knit this pattern as many times as you need until you have a total of 6 inches of knitting, including the 2x2 rib brim.

• Row 1 = *P1, K3, P7, K3* repeat to marker
• Row 2 = *P2, K3, P5, K3, P1* 
• Row 3 = *K1, P2, K9, P2* 
• Row 4 = *K2, P2, K7, P2, K1*
• Row 5 = *K3, P2, K5, P2, K2*

  Be sure to end the body of your hat on row 5, so the crown decreases will properly continue the pattern.  The crown uses alternating left and right decreases in order to prevent twisting the pattern.  Switch to DPNs or use the magic loop technique whenever you need to.

• Row 1 = *P1, K3, P2, P2tog, P3, K3* = 117 stitches
• Row 2 = *P2, K3, P4, K3, P1*
• Row 3 = *K1, P2, K3, K2tog, K3, P2* = 108 stitches
• Row 4 = *K2, P2, K5, P2, K1*
• Row 5 = *K3, P2, SSK, K1, P2, K2* = 99 stitches
• Row 6 = *P1, K3, P4, K3* 
• Row 7 = *P2, K3, SSP, K3, P1* = 90 stitches
• Row 8 = *K1, P2, K5, P2* 
• Row 9 = *K2, P2, SSK, K1, P2, K1* = 81 stitches
• Row 10 = *K3, P4, K2*
• Row 11 = *P1, K3, P2, K1, K2tog* = 72 stitches
• Row 12 = *P2, K1, SSK, K2, P1* = 63 stitches
• Row 13 = *K1, P2, K2tog, P2* = 54 stitches
• Row 14 = *K2, P2tog, P1, K1* = 45 stitches
• Row 15 = *P1, K1, SSP, K1* = 36 stitches
• Row 16 = *K1 P2tog, K1* = 27 stitches
• Row 17 = *P1, K2tog* = 18 stitches
• Row 18 = *SSK* = 9 stitches

  Cut your yarn leaving at least an 8 inch tail.  Using your tapestry needle, weave the remaining tail through the last 9 stitches.  Weave in both of your ends and enjoy!

Wandering Cables Beanie

  For Christmas this year I decided to give myself the gifts of a few volumes of Vogue's Stitchionary.  Looking through the Cables volume this pattern jumped out at me and I decided to make a hat with it.  Since it's December and cold here in Oregon, I went with aran weight yarn to make it nice and warm!  The yarn itself is a bit boring in my opinion, but my local yarn store is rather limited in aran options, so what are you gonna do?
  Before I get started I should warn people that this pattern has very little stretch to it.  I highly recommend knitting a test swatch first to confirm your gauge, and know the measurement of your target head circumference.  You can, of course, block the hat to stretch it a bit.  However, since the idea here was to create a very warm hat for some seriously chilly days, I think stretching your stitches apart is best avoided if possible.  So if you think you need to tweak size, add or subtract by multiples of 12 stitches or even change your needle size.

Materials Needed:

• US #8 circular needles 22" (or DPNs)
• Approximately 88 grams of aran weight yarn.  I used Cascade Yarns 220 Superwash in Extra Creme Cafe
• Stitch marker
• Cable needle
• Tapestry needle for weaving in ends
• Measuring tape

Skills Needed:

• Casting on
• Knit
• Purl
• 6-st RC = Slip 3 stitches onto cable needle and hold to back of work, K3, then K3 from the cable needle
• 6-st LC = Slip 3 stitches onto cable needle and hold to front of work, K3, then K3 from the cable needle
• 5-st RC = Slip 2 stitches onto cable needle and hold to back of work, K3, then K2 from the cable needle
• 5-st LC = Slip 2 stitches onto cable needle and hold to front of work, K3, then K2 from the cable needle
• SSK
• K2tog
• Weaving in ends

  Like I mentioned before, I highly recommend test knitting a swatch.  In the cable pattern, my gauge was 26 stitches and 31 rows equaled 4 inches.

  Begin by casting on 108 stitches.  I used the long tail cast-on.  Place your stitch marker here and join in the round.

• For about 8 rows *K2, P2* repeat to marker

  This should give you around 1.25" of ribbing.  Now begin the cable pattern.  From here on out it's just knit stitches.

• Rows 1-4: Knit across
• Row 5: *6-st RC, K6* repeat to marker
• Rows 6-9: Knit across
• Row 10: *K6, 6-st LC* repeat to marker

  Repeat this pattern for approximately 5 inches, which will give you a total of 6.25 inches from your cast-on.  Be sure to end your pattern on a cable row!  My hat ended on a row 5 with a right twist cable.  Next comes the crown where will we begin our decreases.

  Since we don't want our pattern to be twisted at the very top of the hat, I used alternating left and right leaning decreases, as well as moving the decreases around within the repeating pattern in order to avoid an obvious crease.  In addition, I added one more cable in the crown to keep the pattern going all the way to the top.  

  To be honest, I accidentally messed up the cable row in the decreases by twisting it the wrong way.  I was planning on continuing the alternating left/right pattern.  Since the last cable row in the body of the hat was a right twist, my decrease row cable should have been a left twist.  But I got distracted and made it another right twist. But even though it was an accident, I like the look of the crown.  The last cable has the effect of bringing together two cables into one and then they fade together into the peak.  If you would like to continue the alternating pattern I think that would look great too

• Row 1: *K2, SSK, K8* repeat to marker = 99 stitches
• Row 2: Knit across
• Row 3: *K7, K2tog, K2* repeat to marker = 90 stitches
• Row 4: Knit across
• Row 5: *K2, SSK, K1, 5-st RC (or 5-st LC)* repeat to marker = 81 stitches
• Row 6: Knit across
• Row 7: *K6, K2tog, K1* repeat to marker = 72 stitches
• Row 8: Knit across
• Row 9: *K1, SSK, K5* repeat to marker = 63 stitches
• Row 10: *K3, K2tog, K2* repeat to marker = 54 stitches
• Row 11: *SSK, K4* repeat to marker = 45 stitches
• Row 12: *K2, K2tog, K1* repeat to marker = 36 stitches
• Row 13: *K1, SSK, K1* repeat to marker = 27 stitches
• Row 14: *K1, K2tog* repeat to marker = 18 stitches
• Row 15: *SSK* repeat to marker = 9 stitches

Leaving yourself at least an eight inch tail, cut your yarn and with your tapestry needle weave through the remaining nine stitches.  Weave in your ends and block if needed.  Enjoy!

Ribs & Cables Headband

After I made my Ribs & Cables Beanie I had a little over 30 grams of very unique yarn left over.  So I figured it would be just the right amount to knit up a headband using the same pattern!

Materials Needed:

• Approximately 35 grams of worsted weight yarn.  I used Candy Skeins Juicy Worsted in Stormy Sprinkles
• US #5 circular needles 22" (or DPN's)
• US #7 circular needles 22" (or DPN's)
• Stitch marker
• Cable needle
• Tapestry needle for weaving in the ends

Skills Needed:

• Casting on
• Knit
• Purl
• C6F = Slip the next three stitches purl wise onto the cable needle and bring forward.  Knit the next three stitches from the left needle, then knit the three stitches off the cable needle
• Binding off
• Weaving in ends

  You can do a gauge swatch if you like, but gauge isn't vital to this project as ribbing and cables are both forgiving.  I tend to knit a bit on the tight side.  With the #7 needles in the cable pattern my gauge was 32 stitches & 32 rows equals 4 inches.

  Begin by casting on 120 stitches using the smaller needles.  I used the long-tail cast-on.  Place your stitch marker here, then join in the round.

• Rows 1-3: *K2, P2* repeat to stitch marker.

Now switch to the larger needles for the cable sequence.

• Row 4: *K6, P2, K2, P2* repeat to stitch marker.
• Row 5: *C6F, P2, K2, P2* repeat to stitch marker.
• Rows 6-11: *K6, P2, K2, P2* repeat to stitch marker.
• Row 12: *C6F, P2, K2, P2* repeat to stitch marker.
• Rows 13-18: *K6, P2, K2, P2* repeat to stitch marker.
• Row 19: *C6F, P2, K2, P2* repeat to stitch marker.
• Row 20: *K6, P2, K2, P2* repeat to stitch marker.

Now you have two completed cables.  Switch back to the smaller needles to finish the ribbing.

• Rows 21-23: *K2, P2* repeat to stitch marker.

Bind off in pattern, and enjoy!