Before I get started I should warn people that this pattern has very little stretch to it. I highly recommend knitting a test swatch first to confirm your gauge, and know the measurement of your target head circumference. You can, of course, block the hat to stretch it a bit. However, since the idea here was to create a very warm hat for some seriously chilly days, I think stretching your stitches apart is best avoided if possible. So if you think you need to tweak size, add or subtract by multiples of 12 stitches or even change your needle size.
Materials Needed:
- US #8 circular needles 22" (or DPNs)
- Approximately 88 grams of aran weight yarn. I used Cascade Yarns 220 Superwash in Extra Creme Cafe
- Stitch marker
- Cable needle
- Tapestry needle for weaving in ends
- Measuring tape
Skills Needed:
- Casting on
- Knit
- Purl
- 6-st RC = Slip 3 stitches onto cable needle and hold to back of work, K3, then K3 from the cable needle
- 6-st LC = Slip 3 stitches onto cable needle and hold to front of work, K3, then K3 from the cable needle
- 5-st RC = Slip 2 stitches onto cable needle and hold to back of work, K3, then K2 from the cable needle
- 5-st LC = Slip 2 stitches onto cable needle and hold to front of work, K3, then K2 from the cable needle
- SSK
- K2tog
- Weaving in ends
Begin by casting on 108 stitches. I used the long tail cast-on. Place your stitch marker here and join in the round.
- For about 8 rows *K2, P2* repeat to marker
Repeat this pattern for approximately 5 inches, which will give you a total of 6.25 inches from your cast-on. Be sure to end your pattern on a cable row! My hat ended on a row 5 with a right twist cable. Next comes the crown where will we begin our decreases.
Since we don't want our pattern to be twisted at the very top of the hat, I used alternating left and right leaning decreases, as well as moving the decreases around within the repeating pattern in order to avoid an obvious crease. In addition, I added one more cable in the crown to keep the pattern going all the way to the top.
To be honest, I accidentally messed up the cable row in the decreases by twisting it the wrong way. I was planning on continuing the alternating left/right pattern. Since the last cable row in the body of the hat was a right twist, my decrease row cable should have been a left twist. But I got distracted and made it another right twist. But even though it was an accident, I like the look of the crown. The last cable has the effect of bringing together two cables into one and then they fade together into the peak. If you would like to continue the alternating pattern I think that would look great too
- Row 1: *K2, SSK, K8* repeat to marker = 99 stitches
- Row 2: Knit across
- Row 3: *K7, K2tog, K2* repeat to marker = 90 stitches
- Row 4: Knit across
- Row 5: *K2, SSK, K1, 5-st RC (or 5-st LC)* repeat to marker = 81 stitches
- Row 6: Knit across
- Row 7: *K6, K2tog, K1* repeat to marker = 72 stitches
- Row 8: Knit across
- Row 9: *K1, SSK, K5* repeat to marker = 63 stitches
- Row 10: *K3, K2tog, K2* repeat to marker = 54 stitches
- Row 11: *SSK, K4* repeat to marker = 45 stitches
- Row 12: *K2, K2tog, K1* repeat to marker = 36 stitches
- Row 13: *K1, SSK, K1* repeat to marker = 27 stitches
- Row 14: *K1, K2tog* repeat to marker = 18 stitches
- Row 15: *SSK* repeat to marker = 9 stitches
I love this pattern. And the fact it doesn't stretch out. Can't wait to try it.
ReplyDeleteThank you for posting it.
Thank you very much!
DeleteI love making hats and cables both. This is perfect. As soon as I finish my scarfette, this is my next item to make. Thank you for the pattern.
ReplyDeletecan we download this pattern thank you
ReplyDelete