56Stitches: Ribs & Cables Beanie

So I'm dating this girl named Mary. A few weeks into... whatever this is... I ask her what her favorite color is and she replies "All of them!" So I start looking for a yarn with all the colors and I come across Candy Skein brand yarn.

The idea for this beanie is pretty simple. Start with a 2x2 rib which turns into alternating a six stitch cable with one rib. I've made this style of beanie before using other patterns (see link below). The ribbing gives it the stretch which is so great in beanies, and the cables give it visual appeal and both warmth from the added thickness as well as just a bit of breathing from how the stitches are stretched apart in places. In worsted weight, this beanie will keep you warm on all but the coldest days.

Materials you will need:

Approximately 70 grams of worsted weight yarn. Any brand will do. I used Candy Skein Juicy worsted in the color Stormy Sprinkles
#5 US circular needles 22" or DPN's
#7 US circular needles 22" or DPN's
Stitch marker
Cable needle
Tapestry needle for weaving in ends
Tape measure

Skills you will need:

Casting on
Knit
Purl
C6F = Slip the next three stitches purl wise onto the cable needle and bring forward. Knit the next three stitches from the left needle, then knit the three stitches off the cable needle
SSK
SSP
K2tog
P2tog
Weaving in ends

You can do a gauge swatch if you like, but gauge isn't vital to this project as ribbing is rather forgiving. I tend to knit a bit on the tight side. With the #7 needles in the cable pattern my gauge was 32 stitches & 32 rows equals 4 inches.

Begin by casting on 120 stitches using the smaller needles. I used the long-tail cast-on. Place your stitch marker here, then join in the round.

Rows 1-13: *K2, P2* repeat to stitch marker.

This should give you approximately 1.75 inches of ribbing for your brim. After you've finished your ribbing, switch to the larger needles. Now you need to knit a set-up row before you can start your cables.

Row 14: *K6, P2, K2, P2* repeat to stitch marker.

Now that you've established your knits and your purls, you can begin the cables.

Row 15: *C6F, P2, K2, P2* repeat to stitch marker.
Rows 16-21: *K6, P2, K2, P2* repeat to stitch marker.

Repeat rows 15-21 three more times, then repeat row 15 one last time, ending on row 43. This should give you four completed cables, and ends the body of the beanie at around 5.5 inches. You will now begin on your decrease rows for the crown.

The basic idea of your crown is to decrease from within the cables first. You will eat away at the cables from the inside by alternating left and right slanted decreases, which prevents any twisting of the design. After the cables are gone, decrease the purls until all that is left are the knit stitches from the ribs. I also like to return to smaller needles towards the very top of my beanies. It keeps the stitches nice and tight in an area where they can tend to be loose. You can use DPN's or the magic-loop technique for your decreases depending on which one you are most comfortable with.

Row 1: *K2, SSK, K2, P2, K2, P2* = 110 stitches
Row 2: *K5, P2, K2, P2* = 110 stitches
Row 3: *K2, K2tog, K1, P2, K2, P2* = 100 stitches
Row 4: *K4, P2, K2, P2* = 100 stitches
Row 5: *K1, SSK, K1, P2, K2, P2* = 90 stitches
Row 6: *K3, P2, K2, P2* = 90 stitches
Row 7: *K1, K2tog, P2, K2, P2* = 80 stitches
Row 8: *K2, P2* = 80 stitches

This will be your last row without a decrease.

Row 9: *SSK, P2, K2, P2* = 70 stitches
Row 10: *P2tog, P1, K2, P2* = 60 stitches

Switch back to the smaller needles at this point if desired.

Row 11: *P2, K2, SSP* = 50 stitches
Row 12: *P2tog, K2, P1* = 40 stitches
Row 13: *SSK, K1, P1* = 30 stitches
Row 14: *K1, K2tog* = 20 stitches
Row 15: *K2tog* = 10 stitches

Cut your yarn with at least a 6 inch tail. Weave the tail through the remaining 10 stitches then through the center hole. Weave both ends into ribbing on the inside of the beanie. All done!

Credit where credit is due

The main inspiration for this beanie came from a pattern by Miles Riley called Simple Cable Hat. Miles' pattern is in DK, has a thinner brim, and has a different decrease sequence. If you are looking for a good DK pattern with this look, I recommend it. I've used it a couple times.

Since I had about 30 grams of this yarn left over I decided to make a headband in the same pattern. For the detailed instructions check it out here.