Wandering Cables Beanie

  For Christmas this year I decided to give myself the gifts of a few volumes of Vogue's Stitchionary.  Looking through the Cables volume this pattern jumped out at me and I decided to make a hat with it.  Since it's December and cold here in Oregon, I went with aran weight yarn to make it nice and warm!  The yarn itself is a bit boring in my opinion, but my local yarn store is rather limited in aran options, so what are you gonna do?
  Before I get started I should warn people that this pattern has very little stretch to it.  I highly recommend knitting a test swatch first to confirm your gauge, and know the measurement of your target head circumference.  You can, of course, block the hat to stretch it a bit.  However, since the idea here was to create a very warm hat for some seriously chilly days, I think stretching your stitches apart is best avoided if possible.  So if you think you need to tweak size, add or subtract by multiples of 12 stitches or even change your needle size.

Materials Needed:

• US #8 circular needles 22" (or DPNs)
• Approximately 88 grams of aran weight yarn.  I used Cascade Yarns 220 Superwash in Extra Creme Cafe
• Stitch marker
• Cable needle
• Tapestry needle for weaving in ends
• Measuring tape

Skills Needed:

• Casting on
• Knit
• Purl
• 6-st RC = Slip 3 stitches onto cable needle and hold to back of work, K3, then K3 from the cable needle
• 6-st LC = Slip 3 stitches onto cable needle and hold to front of work, K3, then K3 from the cable needle
• 5-st RC = Slip 2 stitches onto cable needle and hold to back of work, K3, then K2 from the cable needle
• 5-st LC = Slip 2 stitches onto cable needle and hold to front of work, K3, then K2 from the cable needle
• SSK
• K2tog
• Weaving in ends

  Like I mentioned before, I highly recommend test knitting a swatch.  In the cable pattern, my gauge was 26 stitches and 31 rows equaled 4 inches.

  Begin by casting on 108 stitches.  I used the long tail cast-on.  Place your stitch marker here and join in the round.

• For about 8 rows *K2, P2* repeat to marker

  This should give you around 1.25" of ribbing.  Now begin the cable pattern.  From here on out it's just knit stitches.

• Rows 1-4: Knit across
• Row 5: *6-st RC, K6* repeat to marker
• Rows 6-9: Knit across
• Row 10: *K6, 6-st LC* repeat to marker

  Repeat this pattern for approximately 5 inches, which will give you a total of 6.25 inches from your cast-on.  Be sure to end your pattern on a cable row!  My hat ended on a row 5 with a right twist cable.  Next comes the crown where will we begin our decreases.

  Since we don't want our pattern to be twisted at the very top of the hat, I used alternating left and right leaning decreases, as well as moving the decreases around within the repeating pattern in order to avoid an obvious crease.  In addition, I added one more cable in the crown to keep the pattern going all the way to the top.  

  To be honest, I accidentally messed up the cable row in the decreases by twisting it the wrong way.  I was planning on continuing the alternating left/right pattern.  Since the last cable row in the body of the hat was a right twist, my decrease row cable should have been a left twist.  But I got distracted and made it another right twist. But even though it was an accident, I like the look of the crown.  The last cable has the effect of bringing together two cables into one and then they fade together into the peak.  If you would like to continue the alternating pattern I think that would look great too

• Row 1: *K2, SSK, K8* repeat to marker = 99 stitches
• Row 2: Knit across
• Row 3: *K7, K2tog, K2* repeat to marker = 90 stitches
• Row 4: Knit across
• Row 5: *K2, SSK, K1, 5-st RC (or 5-st LC)* repeat to marker = 81 stitches
• Row 6: Knit across
• Row 7: *K6, K2tog, K1* repeat to marker = 72 stitches
• Row 8: Knit across
• Row 9: *K1, SSK, K5* repeat to marker = 63 stitches
• Row 10: *K3, K2tog, K2* repeat to marker = 54 stitches
• Row 11: *SSK, K4* repeat to marker = 45 stitches
• Row 12: *K2, K2tog, K1* repeat to marker = 36 stitches
• Row 13: *K1, SSK, K1* repeat to marker = 27 stitches
• Row 14: *K1, K2tog* repeat to marker = 18 stitches
• Row 15: *SSK* repeat to marker = 9 stitches

Leaving yourself at least an eight inch tail, cut your yarn and with your tapestry needle weave through the remaining nine stitches.  Weave in your ends and block if needed.  Enjoy!

Ribs & Cables Headband

After I made my Ribs & Cables Beanie I had a little over 30 grams of very unique yarn left over.  So I figured it would be just the right amount to knit up a headband using the same pattern!

Materials Needed:

• Approximately 35 grams of worsted weight yarn.  I used Candy Skeins Juicy Worsted in Stormy Sprinkles
• US #5 circular needles 22" (or DPN's)
• US #7 circular needles 22" (or DPN's)
• Stitch marker
• Cable needle
• Tapestry needle for weaving in the ends

Skills Needed:

• Casting on
• Knit
• Purl
• C6F = Slip the next three stitches purl wise onto the cable needle and bring forward.  Knit the next three stitches from the left needle, then knit the three stitches off the cable needle
• Binding off
• Weaving in ends

  You can do a gauge swatch if you like, but gauge isn't vital to this project as ribbing and cables are both forgiving.  I tend to knit a bit on the tight side.  With the #7 needles in the cable pattern my gauge was 32 stitches & 32 rows equals 4 inches.

  Begin by casting on 120 stitches using the smaller needles.  I used the long-tail cast-on.  Place your stitch marker here, then join in the round.

• Rows 1-3: *K2, P2* repeat to stitch marker.

Now switch to the larger needles for the cable sequence.

• Row 4: *K6, P2, K2, P2* repeat to stitch marker.
• Row 5: *C6F, P2, K2, P2* repeat to stitch marker.
• Rows 6-11: *K6, P2, K2, P2* repeat to stitch marker.
• Row 12: *C6F, P2, K2, P2* repeat to stitch marker.
• Rows 13-18: *K6, P2, K2, P2* repeat to stitch marker.
• Row 19: *C6F, P2, K2, P2* repeat to stitch marker.
• Row 20: *K6, P2, K2, P2* repeat to stitch marker.

Now you have two completed cables.  Switch back to the smaller needles to finish the ribbing.

• Rows 21-23: *K2, P2* repeat to stitch marker.

Bind off in pattern, and enjoy!  

Ribs & Cables Beanie

  So I'm dating this girl named Mary.  A few weeks into... whatever this is... I ask her what her favorite color is and she replies "All of them!"  So I start looking for a yarn with all the colors and I come across Candy Skein brand yarn.

   The idea for this beanie is pretty simple.  Start with a 2x2 rib which turns into alternating a six stitch cable with one rib.  I've made this style of beanie before using other patterns (see link below).  The ribbing gives it the stretch which is so great in beanies, and the cables give it visual appeal and both warmth from the added thickness as well as just a bit of breathing from how the stitches are stretched apart in places.  In worsted weight, this beanie will keep you warm on all but the coldest days.

Materials you will need:

• Approximately 70 grams of worsted weight yarn.  Any brand will do.  I used Candy Skein Juicy worsted in the color Stormy Sprinkles
• #5 US circular needles 22" or DPN's
• #7 US circular needles 22" or DPN's
• Stitch marker
• Cable needle
• Tapestry needle for weaving in ends
• Tape measure

Skills you will need:

• Casting on
• Knit
• Purl
• C6F = Slip the next three stitches purl wise onto the cable needle and bring forward.  Knit the next three stitches from the left needle, then knit the three stitches off the cable needle
• SSK
• SSP
• K2tog
• P2tog
• Weaving in ends

  You can do a gauge swatch if you like, but gauge isn't vital to this project as ribbing is rather forgiving.  I tend to knit a bit on the tight side.  With the #7 needles in the cable pattern my gauge was 32 stitches & 32 rows equals 4 inches.

  Begin by casting on 120 stitches using the smaller needles.  I used the long-tail cast-on.  Place your stitch marker here, then join in the round.

• Rows 1-13: *K2, P2* repeat to stitch marker.

This should give you approximately 1.75 inches of ribbing for your brim.  After you've finished your ribbing, switch to the larger needles.  Now you need to knit a set-up row before you can start your cables.

• Row 14: *K6, P2, K2, P2* repeat to stitch marker.

Now that you've established your knits and your purls, you can begin the cables.

• Row 15: *C6F, P2, K2, P2* repeat to stitch marker.
• Rows 16-21: *K6, P2, K2, P2* repeat to stitch marker.

Repeat rows 15-21 three more times, then repeat row 15 one last time, ending on row 43.  This should give you four completed cables, and ends the body of the beanie at around 5.5 inches.  You will now begin on your decrease rows for the crown.

  The basic idea of your crown is to decrease from within the cables first.  You will eat away at the cables from the inside by alternating left and right slanted decreases, which prevents any twisting of the design.  After the cables are gone, decrease the purls until all that is left are the knit stitches from the ribs.  I also like to return to smaller needles towards the very top of my beanies.  It keeps the stitches nice and tight in an area where they can tend to be loose.  You can use DPN's or the magic-loop technique for your decreases depending on which one you are most comfortable with.

• Row 1: *K2, SSK, K2, P2, K2, P2* = 110 stitches
• Row 2: *K5, P2, K2, P2* = 110 stitches
• Row 3: *K2, K2tog, K1, P2, K2, P2* = 100 stitches
• Row 4: *K4, P2, K2, P2* = 100 stitches
• Row 5: *K1, SSK, K1, P2, K2, P2* = 90 stitches
• Row 6: *K3, P2, K2, P2* = 90 stitches
• Row 7: *K1, K2tog, P2, K2, P2* = 80 stitches
• Row 8: *K2, P2* = 80 stitches

This will be your last row without a decrease.

• Row 9: *SSK, P2, K2, P2* = 70 stitches
• Row 10: *P2tog, P1, K2, P2* = 60 stitches

Switch back to the smaller needles at this point if desired.

• Row 11: *P2, K2, SSP* = 50 stitches
• Row 12: *P2tog, K2, P1* = 40 stitches
• Row 13: *SSK, K1, P1* = 30 stitches
• Row 14: *K1, K2tog* = 20 stitches
• Row 15: *K2tog* = 10 stitches

Cut your yarn with at least a 6 inch tail.  Weave the tail through the remaining 10 stitches then through the center hole.  Weave both ends into ribbing on the inside of the beanie.  All done!

Credit where credit is due

The main inspiration for this beanie came from a pattern by Miles Riley called Simple Cable Hat.  Miles' pattern is in DK, has a thinner brim, and has a different decrease sequence.  If you are looking for a good DK pattern with this look, I recommend it.  I've used it a couple times.

Related

Since I had about 30 grams of this yarn left over I decided to make a headband in the same pattern.  For the detailed instructions check it out here.  

Welcome to 56Stitches

     This is my knitting blog, where I will post patterns that I create and give them to the internets for free.  I've been knitting for almost exactly one year now, and have taken to it like a fish to water.  I have over 30 projects under my belt already, from beanies to shawls to cowls and even gloves.  I love trying to learn something new with every pattern that I choose.  Now I think that I am ready to start creating my own patterns based off of what I have learned from others.  Hopefully they turn out well, and hopefully you guys enjoy them.  I will always try to give credit to patterns that have inspired me, because I have found some great ideas that I want to recognize.  But everything I post here will be my own creations.
     Let's get to it!  This is show, not tell! 😄